|
1,
2,
3, 4,
next
I
added a LED power indicator and a Voltmeter [Fig. 3] but they
are not indicated in the schematics for simplicity and cost.
Note
that there is also a fuse [Fig. 2]. You should at least use
a fuse rated for 500mA DC.
Lead
acid batteries are fairly safe but can explode and cause a
fire. A fuse is a good safety device but there is always an
inherent danger of fire and explosion associated with lead
acid batteries and DC power. A short circuited battery can
create very high current. High enough to melt your eyeballs
out of the sockets. On top of that lead acid batteries must
always be charged in a well ventilated area. Even sealed batteries
can have cracks that allow hydrogen gas to leak. Hydrogen
plus electrical switch arcing is an explosive combination.
Remember that newsreel film of Hindenburg coming down in flames?
That aircraft was filled with hydrogen.
For
a more advanced solar charger visit this page.
Fig. 3 The battery enclosure
THE
SOLAR PANEL SUPPORT
See
the photos of aluminum frame I built for my panel [Fig 4].
Take them as a rough guide only. You may have different materials
at hand or your panel may be constructed differently than
mine. I drilled two holes in the legs of the frame so I can
drive screws into a flat roof. Any time you screw something
into the roof you'll need silicon sealant to prevent water
leaks.
Generally,
the panel should be set at 45 degrees and oriented towards
the sun. Avoid areas where there may be shadows that move
as the day progresses. If your area is clear of shadows in
the summer, the winter may be a whole another story.
Fig. 4 The aluminum frame support for the solar panel
If
you live in an area that receives lots of rain consider sealing
all electrical contact boxes on the panel with silicon to
block moisture from short circuiting the panel. Excessive
snowfall can bury your panel for a while and cut off the battery
from daily power supply.
1,
2,
3, 4,
next
|
